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Authentic Lebanese food in Yorkville – and it's affordable
It takes an average of three and a half months to prep for a restaurant opening, but this wasn’t the case for Mohamad Fakih, CEO of Paramount Fine Foods. He opened his 14th location in Yorkville within nine weeks. No easy feat, but one look at the bespoke-suited, talkative man tells you he’s always game for a challenge.
He talks a mile a minute, whisking me to and fro within the restaurant. He’s done this thousands of times and blasts through all the details: his quality halal meats, sourcing local ingredients, the shawarma “robot” he uses for efficiency and eliminating sanitary risks, the baklava’s labour-intensive phyllo dough, annual trips to Lebanon to maintain Paramount’s cuisine authenticity, details about his newest location in the heart of Yorkville.
I’m a tad overwhelmed but enjoy his boisterous spirit. At one point, Fakih is being interviewed by me, telling the chefs in Arabic to prep some food, instructing his staff to check on guests and monitoring the line – all at the same time.
The music of Lebanese singer Fairuz plays softly in the room, which features chocolate wood panelling, a calm cascading waterfall, pearly marble tiles and emerald banquettes, all illuminated by chandeliers imported from Europe. Most important, the vaulted ceiling, according to Fakih, promotes positive karma.
He spared no expense, he says, yet the prices are supremely affordable, as at his other locations. He wants this to be a place not only for Yorkville residents but for those who work in the area.
And the food itself? At Paramount’s first full-service location, as at any new establishment, there are kinks to be worked out. In the rush, the mixed grill kebabs of beef, lamb, shish tawouk (chicken) and kafta (ground beef with spices) aren’t juicy enough, and the shaved shawarmas of chicken and beef are borderline dry.
There is a silver lining though. The Lebanese seven-spice blend renders the meat very flavourful. And the garlic sauce on the side is dreamy. Akin to whipped butter, its sweet, roasted flavour is bliss on bread. The meat could also be enjoyed in a DIY sandwich, tucked into freshly baked puffy pita bread and slathered with smoky moutabbal (roasted eggplant with tahini and spices).
Despite the meat misstep, I’d give Yorkville’s Paramount Fine Foods another chance. Fakih and his staff are bringing good karma to this neighbourhood with affordable, authentic Lebanese fare.
Source: nowtoronto.com